Europe Travel

10 Things to Do in Reims

I had the absolute pleasure of visiting Reims in the spring. Reims is in Champagne country in France and it has so much to offer – aside from delicious champagne!

Reims was founded by the Gauls, and itbecame a major city in the Roman Empire. Reims later played a prominent ceremonial role as it is the traditional site of the coronation of the kings of France. The royal anointing was performed at the Cathedral of Reims, which housed the Holy Ampulla of chrism allegedly brought by a white dove at the baptism of Frankish king Clovis I in 496. For this reason, Reims is often referred to in French as la cité des sacres (“the Coronation City”).

10 Things to Do in Reims

>>> Visit Reims Cathedral.
Before you enter see if you can find the Smiling Angel in the north portal of the west facade of the Cathedral. It is probably the most stunning cathedral that I have ever been in. It has more sculpted figures on the facade than any other cathedral in Europe apart from Chartres. Plus you need to see the Marc Chagall stained glass windows.

>>> Then hop over to the Palace de Tau.
The Episcopal Palace next-door to the cathedral is where the cathedral’s treasury is kept, and also had a role in the coronation ritual. The king would come here to don his robes, and from 990 to 1825 this was where the post-coronation banquet would happen. On display is an astonishing assortment of tapestries, reliquaries and statues. Among the must-sees is a 9th-century talisman belonging to Charlemagne.

>>> Visit the chalk caves of a champagne house.
I went to several champagne houses and toured their chalk caves which I will detail in future posts. I have a few favourites (Ruinart!) but in general, tickets need to be booked reasonably far in advance.

>>> Visit the Carnegie library.
The library was built between 1921 and 1927 and is an art deco marvel. Reims was one of three cities damaged by First World War that were chosen to receive a library from the American philanthropist Andre Carnegie.

>>> Walk through the Mars Gate.
There isn’t a great deal of Reims’ Roman history surviving, but this arch in Place de la République is still going strong. It was built in the 200s, and at 33 metres in length is the largest Roman arch in the world. The arch has a lot of wear, but if you know your Roman mythology you can show off by identifying the reliefs of Romulus and Remus, and Leda and Jupiter. One of the reasons why the Porte de Mars has remained intact is that it was a city gate, and then part of a medieval castle for Reims’ archbishops.

>>> Wander around the Saint Remi Basilica.
On the opposite side of town to the cathedral is the Saint Remi Basilica. This church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and acclaimed as a gothic masterpiece for its sculptural decoration and architecture. Parts of the building are much older than the gothic period, as the romanesque nave and transepts are from the 1000s. Later gothic additions like the choir ambulatory and facade are masterful in the way they help form a unified whole. The historic relics of Reims’ patron saint are inside: Saint-Remi was the bishop noted for baptising Clovis the King of Franks around the turn of the 6th century.

>>> Pretend to live in the Villa Demoiselle.
Next to the Pommery Caves is a gorgeous mansion built during the transition between art nouveau and art deco at the start of the 20th century. After being left to rot in the 80s and 90s it was done up in 2004: The president of Vranken Champagnes, Paul-François Vranken spared no expense restoring the villa to its Belle Époque splendour. The guided tour of the villa takes 1 hour, and the price includes a glass of Demoiselle champagne, the cuvée named after the place.

>>> Have a picnic in the Parc de Chamapagne.
If you visit the city in summer, you will be happy to take a short break in the shaded walkways of the Parc de Champagne (Champagne Park). Today the largest public park in the city of Reims, it was once part of the Domaine Pommery. Next to the villa Demoiselle, in the same neighborhood, you can also go to the Bute Saint-Nicaise park, another green oasis. When I was lounging there in the evening, there was an outdoor Crossfit class and nothing will make you feel more sluggish than having indulged in wine and cheese and watching an exercise class!

>>> Pretend to be an archeologist at the Gallo-Roman cryptoporticus.
Under the ancient Reims forum and the current “place du Forum de Reims”, you can find one of the 3 galleries that formed the Gallo-Roman cryptoporticus (“Cryptoportique gallo-romain”). In the past used for grain storage, it can now be visited and hosts temporary exhibitions.

>>> Stroll through some more modern history at the Museum of Surrender.
A museum about a forgotten part of history. If the date of May 8, 1945 is for everyone the official end of the Second World War, the German surrender was actually signed in Reims on May 7, 1945.

Have you ever visited Reims?

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