North Coast 500

Posted on February 22, 2023

Last summer I was very excited to do the NC 500 (North Coast 500) with a detour to the Isle of Skye and the Orkney Islands. I did a combination of wild camping and pre-booked campsites. One word of caution for your NC 500 trip is that although some of the milage between destinations doesn’t seem very far, due to the winding, single-track nature of the roads, they take a LOT longer to drive than you might think. But without further ado here is my itinerary if you are planning on camping the NC 500.

Day 1: Start in Inverness

Inverness is the last big city for awhile so I did my big grocery shop here. I also visited the Clootie Well, Culloden Moor and Rogie Falls. I also saw the Touchstone Maze and the Prisoner’s Stone before spending the night with a friend outside of Inverness.

Day 2: Inverness to Loch Fleet.

I stopped at Chanonry Point to see dolphins. You have to time this right. They can only be seen 1-2 hours before high tide. Chanonry Point is 16 miles east of Inverness. Then I went on to explore the ruins of Skelbo Castle (46 miles north of Inverness) and watched the seals basking on Loch Fleet before setting up my tent for the night.

Day 3: Loch Fleet to Wick

I went to see Dunrobin Castle (9 miles north of Skelbo) and spent an entire morning at this stunning castle. Then 45 miles north of Dunrobin I stopped at Lybster Harbour and then walked the Whalingoe Steps. I got out of the car again to see the Needle Eye Rock (5 miles north of Whalingoe). My last stop of the day was at the Old Pultenay Distillery. In Wick, I stocked up on groceries and petrol before camping at Wick River Campsite.

Day 4: Wick to Strathy Beach

5 miles north of Wick, I visited Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. Then I drove for another 22 miles and then got out of the car for a big walk around Duncansby Lighthouse, followed by a short walk down to see Duncansby Stacks and the Geo of Sclaites. Then back into the car for a short 3 mile jaunt to John o’Groats (and to take the obligatory Jon o’Groats sign photos). 13 miles west of John o’Groats is Dunnet Bay – which is a must-visit. It’s an amazing bay filled with puffins. (At the end of this day I hopped on the ferry to go to Orkney for several days but I’m continuing this itinerary for my readers missing out on Orkney. But if you have a few more days you must visit!) If you are not going to Orkney, keep going and wild came near Strathy Beach.

Day 5: Strathy Beach to the Kyle of Durness

The Kyle of Tongue is 33 miles west of Strathy. Then you must continue on for 25 miles to Durness to visit the Golden Eagle zipwire. (The zipline and bungee jumps are cash only.) After your adrenaline rush, drive west for 3 more miles to Smoo caves. Exploring the Smoo Caves was one of the highlights of my trip. Then hop back into the car and drive for 2 miles to the Balnakeil Craft Village and have one of the best hot chocolates that you’ll find in the Highlands. Then camp around the Kyle of Durness viewpoint.

Day 6: Kyle of Durness to Achmelvich

On your drive, head 33 miles south to the Kylesku Bridge. Make sure you get out of your car to snap some photos. Then from there, continue on for 11 more miles to the Drumbeg viewpoint. Your first real chance to stretch your legs on that day is to go 6 miles west of Drumbeg to the Clashnessie Falls. After your waterfall hike, head 10 miles south and camp near Achmelvich beach.

Day 7: Achmelvich to Ullapool

I have visited Ullapool before, and I absolutely love it. On the way to Ullapool, I stopped by the Rhue Lighthouse. Then I did a food shop in Ullapool and hung out in the cute town all day. The food options in Ullapool are amazing so do not miss the chance to eat out here!

Day 8: Ullapool to Torridon

13 miles south of Ullapool is the Corrieshalloch Gorge and the Falls of Measach. Make sure you get out of your car to do this walk. It is amazing. Then continue on for 16 miles to Mellon Udrigle Beach. Swing by Gairloch for more petrol and then continue on 30 miles south to Am Ploc which is an ancient open-air church. Then find somewhere to camp near Torridon.

Day 9: Torridon to Glencoe

(After visiting Torridon, this was when I did a detour to the Isle of Skye, which again, I highly recommend. But for the purposes of this itinerary, I am writing as if I did not get off of the NC 500.) Make sure on your way down to Glencoe, you stop at castle Eileen Donan. Then continue on 65 miles south to Fort William for some vegan brunch and delicious coffee. In Fort William, you’ll want to see a series of locks known as Neptune’s Staircase. And then I went to the Treasures of Earth crystal museum (because of course I did.) Then I drove down to the iconic Red Squirrel Campsite for the night. This campsite was so amazing that I wish I had had more than just one night there and had used it as a base to explore more of Glencoe.

Day 10: Glencoe to home

On the way home, I made sure to detour to see a few more sights before leaving Scotland. The first was Ballachulish Bridge, approximately 5 miles east of Red Squirrel. Then the last place I visited was 75 miles south of Glencoe: Devil’s Pulpit and Finnich Glen. Devil’s Pulpit is hard to find, but plan to be there on a warm day for several hours. Wear things that can get wet!

Then there was the long drive back to Northamptonshire!